Alexander’s sarcophagus

The colouring has faded very much since the monument was unearthed. It is generally called Alexander’s sarcophagus, but it has not been possible as yet to decide whose remains it contained. Some aver that it enclosed the corpse of a Persian satrap who, after fighting hard for his country, at last deserted and went over to the Macedonian conqueror, who admitted him to his intimacy. One thing, however, is certain, namely, that this, which is one of the most important remaining monuments of Greek antiquity, is the work of an artist contemporary with Lysippus, who flourished towards the end of the fourth century B.c.

This sarcophagus, which is unique both as regards style and preservation, is modelled to represent an elongated Greek temple, with its friezes, pediments, etc.

Greeks and Persians

South Side.—The sculptures on this side represent a cavalry engagement between the Greeks and Persians at the battle of Issus, or Arbela. The Greeks are either nude, save for a light chlamys, or else are clad in armour, and wear variously the helmet and the Macedonian cap; while the Persians are dressed in trunk-hose and tunics with a short tight-sleeved cloak hung from the neck down their backs. The Greek horses are ridden barebacked with only a bit and bridle, and an occasional breast- band ; the Persian chargers, on the other hand, are richly caparisoned. The figures, at first sight, appear somewhat confusedly arranged, but a closer inspection reveals five distinct and symmetrical groups. The central one is formed of four figures—a Greek horseman ; a barbarian kneeling and holding his arms up as if asking quarter; a barbarian archer likewise on his knees ; and another towards the left, standing.

The two other groups, one on each side of the central one, are each composed of two figures; that on the right represents a hand-to-hand encounter between a Persian horseman and a Greek foot-soldier, and that on the left a combat between a Greek and Persian foot-soldier. Of the two remaining groups that on the left is of a Greek horseman with couched lance, charging a Persian who is struggling to get clear of his fallen charger; that towards the right is of a Persian horseman receiving a lance-thrust from a mounted Greek general, and, with hands still clutching the reins, falling into the arms of his attendant shield-bearer. On the ground are five symmetrically arranged figures of killed or wounded men.

Head.—The carvings here represent an incident of warfare, and are, like those just described, noted for their symmetrical grouping. In the centre is a Persian horseman about to spear a wounded Greek lying on the ground, and covering himself with his buckler; to the right and left, respectively, is a single – handed combat between a Greek and a Persian.

Rumeli Hissar citadel

Arnaut Keui, the next place the steamer calls at, is the Byzantine Michaelion, built on the site of the more ancient Hestiae. Its Byzantine name was derived from the church erected there to St. Michael by Constantine and rebuilt afterwards by Justinian, and pulled down by Muhammad II., who used the materials for building Rumeli Hissar citadel.

The current at the cape above the landing-stage sets with a velocity of 4 knots an hour, and is called Mega Reuma (‘ strong current ’) by the Greeks, who extend that name to the village also. Boatmen proceeding up the Bosporus find it more expedient to get out and tow past the cape. The Imperial Kiosk, with the lanterns on each side of the door, at the end of the quay is not used now. The charming villa farther on, near the next station, belongs to the sons of the late Egyptian Prince Halim.

Rebek, which comes next after Arnaut Keui, is built on the site of ancient Chelae. In the adjoining bay once stood a temple to Diana Dictynna. The picturesque situation of the place and the beauty of the surrounding scenery made it a favourite resort of various sultans, especially Sultan Selim I. and Selim III., the first of whom built a summer palace on the water-side, known to Europeans as the Palace of Conferences, where ambassadors were received in secret audience. On the top of the hill is the handsome college founded by Mr. A. Robert of Hew York in 1863, and called Robert College after him.            

The high road from Pera stops at Bebek. The cemetery lying between the village and Robert College is highly venerated by the Turks, as being the last resting-place of the first of their race who crossed into Europe from Asia, whom they are wont to style Sehid (martyrs) or Evlia (saints). On the top of the hill is a monastery of Bektashl Dervishes, commanding a splendid view.

Rumeli Hissar, or the Citadel of Europe, the next station, is a village mostly inhabited by Turks. The water-gates seen under the houses are to admit boats belonging to the house into the cellars, which in Bosporus water-side residences are generally used as boat-houses.

Kaiser William II

The exhibition part is divided into three: the outer garden, the inner garden, and the inner apartments. In the former one can have a fine drive. In it is also to be seen Merassim Palace, which was built for Ii.M. Kaiser William II. and occupied by him during his two visits to Constantinople. (Ho admission to it.) Also the Persian Kiosk, built for the Shah of Persia in 1900, but which he did not occupy, as it was not ready. Visitors are admitted.

The inner garden has a small artificial rivulet on which the Sultan and his wives used to go on canoes and cycle-boats. (Visitors can make use of these boats.)

The Kiosk Djihan Kouma is worth a visit for its magnificent view and the large telescope, which visitors can use. The immense collection of pigeons is worth an inspection for both the variety and number.

Tsit Kiosk, a low and unpretending building where the Sultan used to receive foreign ambassadors in audience. In the large sitting- room a secret door is shown in the wall through which the Sultan used to unexpectedly appear or disappear.

The small mosque, in [Renaissance style, standing just outside Yildiz grounds, is Hamidieh Mosque, at which Sultan Hamid invariably attended prayers every Friday.

Orta Keui, the next stopping-place, a large village bisected by a stream, is the ancient Byzantine village of St. Phocas, so called from the monastery and church which formerly stood here, but of which the latter alone remains. The lower part of the village is inhabited by Jews, and the upper part by Armenians and a few Greeks. The Orta Keui market-gardens are said to grow the best fruit and flowers sold in Constantinople market. The large Yeni Yalideh Mosque, jutting out into the sea, near the landing-stage, was built by Sultan Abd-ul-Aziz’s mother, and is the one which that Sultan usually attended. Many of the large wooden houses along the shore are the Yalls or water-side residences of ministers of state, pashas, and other dignitaries.

Kuru Cheshmeh, the next station, was a little more than a century ago the residence of the Hospodars of Wallachia and their descendants; but now is a wretched village inhabited by Jews, Armenians, and a few Greeks. No vestige now remains of the legendary laurel-tree formerly in this village, which is said to have been planted by Medea when she came here with the Argonauts.

Khaireddin Pasha

Beshik-Tash, ‘Cradle Stone,’ is the next station. It stands on the site of the Byzantine Diplokiemion, and derives its name, according to some Turkish writers, from Khaireddin Pasha’s tomb, which resembles a cradle; and, according to others, from Besh Task (five stones), which Khaireddin had his ships moored to. Near the guard-house is the tomb of Gazi Khaireddin Pasha, called Barbarossa, who conquered Algiers and Tunis for Suleiman the Great, and defeated the combined Christian fleet at Prevesa.

‘Et Bechik-Tash, oh dort sous la pierre et la mousse, la terreur des Chretiens, Chair-ed-Din Bar- berousse ’ (G. Nogues fils).

Two ancient columns, overthrown by an earthquake, which once formed part of an altar or temple, are said to have given Beshik-Tash its Byzantine name DiploJcionion (‘Double Column’). These columns are said to be among the stones lying between Barbarossa’s tomb and the water’s edge. Beshik-Tash is where Dandolo’s troops first effected a landing at the taking of the city by the Venetians in 1203. Just beyond the landing-stage is Cheragan Palace, now partly burnt, was built by Sultan Abd-ul-Aziz, and where this Sultan died. In this palace Sultan Abd-ul-Hamid had imprisoned his elder brother, the unfortunate Sultan Murad V., who died there after an imprisonment of nearly 25 years. In 1910 it was used by the Parliament. But owing to a fire, believed to have been caused by accident, all that stands now are its four walls. It is estimated to have cost about £4,000,000.

 Cheragan Palace

Yildiz Kiosk, i.e., the palaces and grounds seen from the steamer on the heights immediately above Cheragan Palace, and surrounded by high walls, is well worth a visit. It takes about two hours to see everything, and the total cost of entrance fees is about 20 piastres (3s. 4d.). It is open from sunrise to sunset. But on Tuesdays it is open to ladies, and on Wednesdays the charge for entrance fees is doubled.

Yildiz Kiosk is not one building but many. There are said to be in all about twenty-five. They are surrounded by high walls, and comprise an immense area covered by trees and all kinds of plants.

Sultan Abd-ul-Hamid II. had them built at various periods, and lived there uninterruptedly during all the time he reigned, viz., 32 years. He kept an immense household and an unlimited number of wives. But after his dethronement by the Voung Turkish Party the place was opened to the public, excepting his private apartments and those of his harem.

THE BOSPORUS OR STRAITS OF CONSTANTINOPLE

Travellers can go up the Bosporus by the steamers that ply from the Stambul end of the G-alata Bridge. Those calling at stations on the European side fly a green, those at both shores a red and green flag. The time-tables published in the local papers give Turkish time, which varies throughout the year. The trip up to the Black Sea and back without landing takes about four hours, and this is most usually done by travellers. The fare from the bridge to the last village on the Bosporus or five villages below it is the same, viz. piastres (9d.). Overcoats and wraps should be taken, especially when the wind blows from the north. A good way to see the Bosporus and the Black Sea on a fine day from different points of view is to devote a whole day to it, and take provisions from the hoteL Start on an early steamer for Beikos; get out at Beikos and walk to the Giant’s Mountain (-| hr.), whence there is a beautiful view of the Bosporus and Black Sea.

Thence walk to the Genoese Castle at Anadoli Kavak (1-J hr.), where luncheon may be eaten; from Anadoli Kavak cross the Bosporus in a boat or caique (5 to 10 ps. = 10d. to Is. 8d.) to Buyukdereh or Therapia, which are reached in half an hour; visit either of those two villages, and proceed either by steamer back to Galata, or else drive or ride overland past the aqueducts back to Pera. This trip is recommended only to good pedestrians; a guide must be taken.

The Bosporus is one of the most picturesque places in Europe, and is a succession of woodland, hill and dale, covered with villages reaching down to the water’s edge, and dotted with white marble palaces and pretty summer residences, nestling among groves of trees, or surrounded with gardens. The beauty of the Bosporus is confined to the part between the city and Yeni Mahalleh, the last works are the Sultan’s stables, permission to see whicli can be obtained through the Embassy.

Next the square is Dolmah Baghcheh Palace,a com-bination of European and Oriental architecture, built of white marble by Sultan Abd-ul-Mejid in 1853. The principal objects of interest in the palace are the staircase, the baths of alabaster, and the Throne Room or Reception Hall, one of the most impressive halls in Europe, where H.I.M. the Sultan holds a lev6e twice a year. This was the residence of Sultan Abdul- Mejid and of his ill-fated brother Sultan Abd-ul-Aziz.

Porphyrogenitus for his son Romanus

It was, however, probably built by Constantine Porphyrogenitus for his son Romanus, on the site of an earlier palace built by Constantine the Great, as a conveniently situated residence when reviewing the troops. The Jucundiana, Justinian’s favourite residence, was at Galata, and not at the Hebdomon as is erroneously supposed. Tekfur Sara’i is worthy of special notice as being one of the few remaining specimens of Byzantine architecture, a style which appears to have been further developed in the palaces at Venice. The building, commanding a fine view of the Golden Horn, is a three-storeyed one, with triple windows and marble sills. The immediate vicinity is now the Jewish quarter. Admission to the interior of the palace is free; the entrance is through the glass factory near the walls.

Eghri Kapil (Crooked Gate) is the sixth gate, and is the ancient Harsia, also called Porta Caligaria, from the number of military bootmakers’ shops once in the vicinity. It is the gate so bravely defended by the gallant German, Johann Grant, and by Theodore of Carystos, during the last siege by the Turks, and is also the place from which Constantine Palaeologus made his last reconnaissance on the eve of the taking of the city.

The seventh gate has disappeared long ago, and not a vestige of it now remains.

In the Hebdomon district was the site of the Blackemce Palace, which probably stood on the very spot where Awas Kffendi’s Mosque now stands. This palace was first built by Anastasius Dicorus, in 499 A.D., before the erection of the Theodosian Walls, and was originally an imperial pavilion for the use of the emperor when proceeding to Blachernse Church; but was subsequently enlarged, and in the ninth century was considerably extended by the addition of new wings, and decorated and embellished with such magnificence as to evoke the astonishment and admiration of Peter the Hermit and his Crusaders in 1096.

Alexius Comnenus

At Blachernae took place the meeting of Godfrey de Bouillon with Alexius Comnenus (see p. 12). Here also the arrangements were made with Isaac Angelus for the fourth Crusade. During the fifty-eight years of the Latin occupation the palace suffered considerable damage; but in 1261 it was restored by Michael Palaeologus (see p. 15), and was the favourite residence of the Greek emperors. It con-tinued to be the favourite residence of the Palaeologi down to the time of the taking of the city by the Turks.

The closed gateway seen half-way between the second and third towers, beyond the foot of the hill, is the Gyrolimne, once the main entrance of the Blachernae Palace. The inscription on the fourth tower sets forth that it is the tower of Isaac Angelus, built in 1188. The next tower, known as the Tower of Anemas, was a state prison attached to Blachernae Palace, and was built by Alexius Comnenus. Its name is derived from its first inmate, Anemas, imprisoned for conspiracy against that emperor in 1107. Amongst others confined in it, at different times, were the Emperor Andronicus Comnenus; John Palaeologus and his two sons; Gregory, Duke of Trebizonde; and the patriarch Yeccus.

Frankish or European

Pera, contiguous to Galata, and on the heights rising immediately above it, is the  Frankish or European, quarter of the city, where the Europeans, Levantines, and a great part of the Greek and Armenian population live, and where all the hotels and the foreign embassies and consulates are situated.

Kassim Pasha is a filthy and insanitary suburb in the immediate vicinity of the dockyard, off which the Turkish fleet lies at anchor throughout the year. The fine marble building standing on a plot of land jutting out into the Golden Horn is the Admiralty. Close by are the graving-docks, slips, building sheds, and workshops, where, until recently, a considerable number of British foremen, mostly Scotchmen, were employed. The large building on the hill, immediately above the dockyard, is the Naval Hospital.

Kassim Pasha

Phanar, now a dirty and poor-looking suburb, lies on the Stambul side, opposite Kassim Pasha, and is chiefly inhabited by Greeks. Its name Phanarion, shortened by the Turks into Phanar or Phener, is a diminutive of javo; (a lantern).

Phanar is the seat of the Patriarch, the head of the Eastern or Greek Church; and here is situated the Greek Cathedral of St. George, in connection with the Patriarch’s residence. Travellers are freely admitted to the different rooms of the Patriarch’s official residence, in one of which visitors are shown a painting representing Sultan Muhammad II., the Conqueror, in his state robes, handing the patriarch Gennadius Scholarius the the river Vorvyses.

The mouth of the latter, called Kara Agatch, is the point where the steamers stop. The valley of the Sweet Waters of Europe is a favourite resort of natives, especially Turks, in spring and early summer, and can be reached by water, or by carriage from Pera. The better class of people, and ladies, always drive there. Travellers desirous of getting a glimpse of Turkish life should visit the spot on a fine Friday afternoon in spring. A good plan is to drive there from Pera and return by water, or vice versa. No Turkish ladies are to be seen there in Ramazan.

Galata Bridge to Ayub

EXCURSIONS

The best way to see the Golden Horn is by going up it in a fair-sized caique pulled by two men. Fare 15 to 20 piastres (2s. 6d. to 3s. 4d.) there and back. The small steamers plying between Galata Bridge and the various stations on the Inner Horn are both uncomfortable and dirty, and on account of their awnings utterly unsuitable for sight-seeing. Fare (Galata Bridge to Ayub) 50 paras (2nd.).

The Golden Horn, or Bay of Constantinople, extends from its junction with the Bosporus at Seraglio Point to a spot away up the harbour, called the Khlyat Haneh or Sweet Waters of Europe, at the confluence of two small streams, the Kedaris or Ali bey Suyu, and the Vorvlsses or Khlyat Haneh Silyu, and separates Galata and Pera from the Stambul side of the city. Its names of Keratios Kolpos (The Horn Gulf) and Chrysokeras (Golden Horn) are derived from the resemblance of this arm of the Bosporus to the shape of a ram’s horn.

The Golden Horn is some six miles long, with an average width of about 490 yards, and a mean depth of twenty-three fathoms, and is spanned by two bridges. In olden times it was closed during the various sieges by a chain stretched across it, from Seraglio Point to Galata.

The most interesting suburbs on the Golden Horn are—Galata, Pera, Kassim Pasha, Phanar, Balata, Haskeui and Ayub.

Galata was originally known under the name of Sykce (fig-trees), presumably from a grove of fig- trees having once existed there; but the place was afterwards called Galata, from the Gauls who formed a settlement there ; and this name has clung to it throughout its subsequent occupation by the Genoese, down to the present day. Galata is now the place where the banks, steamship agencies, stock exchange, and offices of agents and representatives of European firms are established. The old Genoese walls which formerly enclosed Galata have been pulled down years ago to make way for the erection of modern buildings, and scarcely a vestige of them now remains.

Crumnus the Bulgarian

The Wall of Leo, the Armenian, to the north of the tower of Anemas, is the ancient Pentapyrgion, so called from its five towers, built in 813 by Leo the Armenian, in view of an apprehended attack by Crumnus the Bulgarian.

The Wall of Heraclius was built in 627 to protect the suburb in the vicinity of Blachernse, which had suffered in the siege of the city by the Avars.

The Fire Towers.—Galata Tower, on a hill just above Galata, and nearly opposite the Stambul Tower, is of Genoese origin, and when first built, under Anastasius Dicorus, was only about half its present height, to which it was raised in 1446 A.D. Under Justinian it was once used as a receptacle for the bodies of those dying of the plague, who were cast into it to save time and trouble in burying the large numbers daily carried off by the pestilence; a proceeding which only increased the ravages committed by the dread scourge. Up to the time of the taking of Con-stantinople by the Turks it was called the Tower of the Cross, from the cross which surmounted it. Massively built, and rising to a height about 150 feet above the hill on which it stands, and commanding, as it does, an extensive bird’s-eye view of the city, the Bosporus, and the Marmora, it is admirably situated to meet the requirements of a look-out and signal station; for which it was originally designed and is still used. The tower was restored, after the destruction of its wooden roof by fire, by Sultan Selim in 1794, and again by Sultan Mahmud II. in 1824; and so solid is its masonry that neither the severe earthquakes in 1894, nor those which preceded them over a century ago, have affected it in the least. The last remaining portion of the old Genoese walls, which in older times surrounded the tower and Galata, have within the last ten years been pulled down to make way for the houses which have been erected on their site.

Admission 5 piastres per head, but a reduction is usually made for a large party. The quartermaster on duty in the signal – room also expects a couple of piastres.

The Stambul Fire Tower, properly called the Seraskerat Tower, is situated on the Seraskerat (War Office) parade-ground, and is one of the two high round towers which are the first objects to attract the attention of strangers approaching Constantinople, and especially those arriving by steamer. This tower was built by the Turks after the style of the more ancient one at Galata, but is less massive and more slender. Like Galata Tower it serves as a look-out and fire-station, and commands a splendid view of Stambul, the Marmora, Bosporus, and Golden Horn. Admission 2 J piastres per head (5d.).

Suleiman the Great

The mosque inside the gate is that of Mihri- Mah, daughter of Suleiman the Great, and wife of Rustem Pasha, and was built in 1555 by Suleiman on the site of the Greek Church of St. George; the Greeks being allowed, by way of compensation, to build another church, still intact, opposite the mosque.

The street on the left through the gate leads to the Mosaic Mosque. The street running along the walls, in the direction of the harbour, leads through the Jewish quarter to Tekfur Sarai (Hebdomon Palace).

The sixth inner tower beyond Edirneh Kapu is called Nicholas Tower, after a Byzantine cavalry officer. At this point the line of walls is interrupted for a short distance by Tekfur Sarai, because this latter, erected before the walls, was an obstacle which had either to be demolished or to be enclosed within the new wall. The weak part in the line of walls, caused by the presence of the palace at this spot, was therefore strengthened by a wall running along the rear of the building. In this transverse wall was a postern gate giving access into the town. This is the famous postern or Kerkoporta, which, after having been closed up, was reopened by the Byzantines for military purposes during the last siege of Constantinople by the Turks in 1453 ; the gate was then left open through carelessness, and was entered by a small party of the enemy., who, planting their flag on the neighbouring tower, caused such a panic throughout the city that no further resistance was offered by the defenders.

Byzantine Rebdomon district

This spot is the sixth hill, the site of the Byzantine Rebdomon district. It was divided into two parts, styled respectively the Outer and the Inner Rebdomon. The Outer Hebdomon was the Campus Martins, where the earlier emperors were proclaimed, and where the troops took the oath of allegiance. The Tribunal from which the emperors were wont to address the troops was in all probability the tower immediately adjoining Tekfur Sara’i, and was built by the Emperor Yalens, who was the first sovereign thus proclaimed emperor in Constantinople.

The Campus Martius also served as a drill-ground for the troops, and was the scene of the numerous litanies performed during seasons of long drought and after earthquakes, and of the annual litany in commemoration of the disastrous earthquake which occurred in 556 A.D., during the reign of Justinian. Inner Hebdomon was the Hebdomon Palace, now known as Tekfur Sarai. This latter name is, in all probability, a Turkish corruption of the Greek rod tcvpiov (‘ of the lord ’), the title by which the Turks designated the Byzantine emperors, and the Turkish word Sarai (‘palace’). Nothing certain is known about the founder of the palace.