On getting up at six in the morning of the 28th, we found land about us in all directions. Passing the islands of Poros and Egina—the former possessing a fine arsenal, with every capability for building large ships on English principles, if the money could but be found; and the latter, the remains of a noble temple —on our left, and Sunium on our right, we came to anchor in the Pirseus about half past nine.
Levantine fancy costumes
It was here that I found myself in the midst of the first Levantine fancy costumes, that attract the traveller’s attention—the real well-known bright Albanian dress of the masquerades and panoramic paper hangings, to say nothing of Madame Tussaud’s Byron. One after another, picturesque fellows, in clean white kilts, so to speak, and scarlet leggings, shot off from the shore in light boats, which they rowed admirably, having adopted our own fashion from the people of the Ionian Islands. As soon as they had surrounded the bottom of* the steamer’s ladder, they commenced fighting in a most furious manner to get the best position; banging each other with boat-hooks and large sticks, which they had evidently brought with them for the nonce, and climbing up the sides of the packet, like cats. In vain the crew of the Sccimanclre repulsed them—brushing them back into the swarm of boats, to get freshly beaten by their fellows on whom they tumbled—they were up again like wasps in an instant; and the passengers had enough to do to avoid being involved in the battle, which continued even on deck, amongst the hotel touters.
“ I say, sir ! here, sir ! Hotel d’Orient is the best. Here’s the card, sir—old palace—Murray says ver good,” cried one of the costumes.
“Hi!” screamed another; “don’t go with him, master—too dear ! Come with me!”
The parties were immediately engaged in single combat.
“ Hotel d’Angleterre a Athenes, tenu par Elias Polichronopulos et Yani Adamopulos,” shouted another, all in a breath ; I copy the names from the card he gave me, for they were such as no one could remember tour bulgaria.
“Yes, sir; good hotel,” said his companion. “ Look in Murray, sir—page 24—there, sir : here, sir: look, sir !”
“ Who believes Murray ?” asked a fellow in plain clothes, with a strong Irish accent.
“You would, if he put down your house in the handbook,” replied another.
They all appeared to have, more or less, a know- – ledge of English.
At length, by dint of great strength of mind, combined with physical force, a few of us got into a boat, (having been told that the packet would wait until next morning in the harbour,) and we were soon
standing on the quay of the Piraeus, the town being a collection of small newly-built houses, consisting chiefly of merchants’ stores, customs establishments, and agents’ offices, with some inferior cafes, on one of which was written “ Grogs-shop” intended, I suppose, as a translation of the more classical OtWeoXsov, on the other shutter. A nominal examination of the luggage of such of the passengers as were going to land took place on the quay, and every one was then allowed to go where he pleased. Just.then a good- looking fellow, in an Albanian dress, stepped up to our party and proffered his services as guide, for the day, to Athens. His name was Demetri Pomoni; he spoke excellent English, and told us “ that he was a subject of Queen Victoria ; that he had lived in London, and that we should find his name in the eternal Murray, page 25.” They had all got their position by heart. We engaged Demetri for the day, and hiring a shabby hack carriage, from a cluster of regular country railway flies, drawn up in cab-stand rank upon the port, we started off at a dismal pace for Athens, distant about five miles.
Private Balkan Tours 